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Sewing Laboratory Manual 



-BY- 



E. L. MELDRUM 

TEACHER OF DOMESTIC ART 
KANSAS CITY, KANSAS, HIGH SCHOOL. 




1912 



CopyriBht 1912 by E. L. Meldrum 



/ 



OUTLINE 



I. .Materials nceiUvf lor class work. 
II. lleiier.il iliretticins. 

Discussion of iieeilles. emery, thread 

thiml)Ie. .scissors, clotli. weaviiiK. 
TiUile of measures with which eacli 
stiKleiil slioiihl he familiar. 

EXERCISES 

I. Stiltlles. 

ilOvell. 
I'lieveii. 
Siile stitch. 
Kiiiiniii;.;. 
Itack slilcliiiii:. 
Overcaslinji. 
II. Stitclies. I'liltiii;; 1)11 liaml. 
Heinmiiig. 

Xapery. French or I>ainask Hem. 
Overhaiidiiif:. 
fiatheriiiK- 
.Strokiu.u. 

I'littiii.^' on a I'.aml. 
III. Seams. 

< )vereas(e(l Seam. 
French Seam. 
French Fell Scam. 
I'"laiiiiel .Seam. 
Hoiiml .Seam 

Hindin;; the lOntire .Seam. 
Open Bound Seam. 
Notched Seam. 
I\'. r.iiltonholes. Muttons. Hooks and 
F.ves. 
Buttonholes. 
Loops. 

Kyelet Holes. 
Sewing on Bill tons. 
Hooks and lOyes. 
Sewlns; on Ta|ie. 
V. I'laekets. 

Bound riiicket. 

I'lacket with lO.xtension Hem on 

One Side and a Flat Facing on 

the Other. 

I'lacket for Shirl or Sliirt Waist. : 

VI. (iusset. ;., 

VII. Batching. 

Overhand I'atch. 
Hemmed I'atch. 
\III. Daruiui;. 

StockiiiK. 

Cloth. 

Kid. 

— 2- 



IX. Bias. 

Cuttinj;. 

I'ressiug Bias Folds for Underwear. 
.\. I>ace and Kuiliroldery Matching. 

Lace. 

Sewing on Lace. 

Sewing Lace Around a Corner. 

lOtnhroidery. 

Tucking. 
XI. Milered Corners. 

1st .Method. 

-nil .Method. 
.\11. I''ancy Stilches. 

Blanket. 

To mark for Scalloiis. 

French Knots. 

Cress. 

Catch or Herringhoiie. 

Outline or Kensington. 

( 'lialn. 

Half Chain. 

Feather. 

Double I'ea tiler. 

Hemstitching. 

DRAFTING 



MATERIALS NEEDED. 
Thread. — 

White .\o. 711. 

Black .\d. till. 

Basting Cotton (white). .\o. tiO. 
-Needles. — 

No. N. Sharps. 
Thimble. — 

Aluminum. Celluloid or Silver. 
Scissors. — 

At least six inches long, sharp points. 
Bins. — 

Small. (Three fourths inch long.) 
Ta|ie .Measure. — 

.''>4 or CO inches long. 
Ihnery. — 

( .strawberry shape. ) 
I'in Cushion. — 

Three inches by three inches. (.Made of 
soft woolen cloth stuffeil with hair or 
saw (lust. I 
Brads.— 

Two dozen (very small). 
Name should lie written with ink on e.ich 
of the above articles. 



©CI.A3a8820 



A, ^ GENERAL DIRECTIONS. 

* 1. Hands and nails should be clean. 

2. Sit well back in the chair, feet flat on the floor, and head erect. The elbows 
should be held near the body, and the work held up about opposite the chest. Let the 
light come over the left shoulder if possible. 

3. Always wear a thimble. 

4. Keep the scissors sharp. 

5. Do all sewing neatly. Make the stitches small and even, sewing the corners 
securely and having the wrong side as neat as possible, as neatness in everything in- 
dicates a well directed mind. 

Needles. 
Needles are of various sizes and shapes, according to the usages for which they are 
Intended, ranging from No. 1. the coarsest, to No. 12. the finest. 

f Milliner's, very long. 
I Sharps, for ordinary sewing. 
^ Round Eyes.. | Ground downs, shorter than sharps. 

I Betweens, very short, for thick material. 
L Glove, shortest. 

C Embroidery, sharp point. 

Long Eves \ Darning, sharp point. 

l Tapestry and Bodkin or Tape, blunt point. 

Needles and thread should he In proportion to each other, and to the material or 
stitch that is to he worked. The thread should always be slightly coarser than the threads 
of the material. 

Never use a bent, rusty or too large needle. 

In sewing, hold the needle between the thumb and first finger of the right hand, the 

eye of the needle on the thimble, push gently between thumb and forefinger. Draw the 

needle through the material allowing the thread to pass under the third finger and over 

the little finger. By this means, the hand Is always kept partially open and the thread Is 

kept clean. 

The emery bag should be used to brighten the needle when it is rough and does not 
go easily through the cloth. 

Emery. 

Emery is one of the hardest materials, and is used for polishing metals. The stone is 
crushed and sifted into powder of different fineness. It Is then put into various forms, 
such as the emery paper, emery bag, emery cloth, etc. 

Thread. 

Thread is a twisted strand of cotton, flax, wool or silk. Thread made of cotton is 
commonly called spool cotton; that made of silk is technically known as sewing sUk. 
while coarse silk is called twist ; that made of flax is known as linen ; and that made 
from wool is called yarn, worsted or zephyr. 

For colored work, choose thread or silk a shade darker than the material, as it will 
work lighter. 



Sizes of Thread. — 

Colored Cotton. 



Nos. 30 (Coarsest), 

36, 40, 50, 60, 70, SO, 90 (Finest). 



f Nos. S (Coarsest), 10, 12, 16, 20, 24, 30, 36, 
Black and J ^q go^ qq ^q, SO, 90, 100, 110, 120 , 130 , 

White Cotton.. [ ^^^^ -^g^^ gOO (Finest. 

f White, 25 (Coarsest) to 250 (Finest). 
Linen -^ ^i^^^ 25 (Coarsest) to 100 (Finest). 

SilU._000 (Finest). 00. 0, A, B, C, D, E, F (Coarsest). 

— 3 — 



The uuuiliois (if thi'c.id and needles used lor various kinds of stitelies in cotton clotli : 

Heimuiu?,'. . . j rj^,,^ , ,^, -q ^ -^qq Needles, Nos. 9 and 10. 
Tuekmg. . . . ( ' 

Running | 

Stlti-hm^' I .Thread. Nos. r,u to ,sO ; Needles, Nos. S and 9. 

Overhanding. . . ( 
Overcasting... J 
Buttonlioles. — Thread. Nos. 40 or .'.(t : Needles, No. S. 

Basting. ( -|-iji.p,,j^ xos. Ai) to CO: Needles, No. 7 and S. 
Gathering ( 

The thread should be the length of the arm. or from shoulder to shoulder. Thread 
the needle from the end, as it comes from the spool. If it is not too coarse, it is broken 
from the spool; if coarse, it is cut slantwise th.it the end may go easily through the eye 
of the needle. 

Never hite the thread; it injures the teeth and soils the work. 

To thread the needle, hold the thread between the thumb and first finger of the left 
hand, twist the end of the thread with the thumb and first finger of the right hand, hold 
the needle eye upward between the thumb and right forefinger and rest hands together 
to steady them, with the right hand push the needle onto the thread. 

To make a knot, raise the threaded needle in the right band until the thread hangs 
straight; lay the end of the thread against the left first finger with the thumb over it; 
wind once and a half around the first finger; twist the threads together, place the nail 
of the second finger on the twisted threads and draw tightly to the end. 

Use a knot in the thread only when it can l)e hidden or when liasting. 

To unwind a new spool of thread, slip a pin under the thread where It is caught in 

the wood. When not using a spool of thread, keep the end of the thread fastened in the 

wood. 

Thimble. 

A thimble is a bell-shaped implement used for inishiug the needle in sewing; It Is 
usually worn on the middle finger of the right hand. 

Scissors. 

Scissors are of several different kinds ; every pair over six inches in length should 
be called shears. 

Shears are for cutting heavy materials; scissors with one blade rounded for ordinary 
u.se; scissors with both blades rounded to carry in the pocket; small scissors with both 
blades pointed for cutting off threads; and buttonhole scissors with a gauge for regulat- 
ing the length of the buttonhole. 

In cutting, scissors should be held in right hand with thuml) and second finger in the 
bows, and kept in place with first finger. The .scis.sors should be moved forward before 
the points meet. In passing scissors or shears, hand the bows or handles to the person, 
keeping the point toward yourself. 

Cloth. 

Cloth is a woven fabric of cotton, flax, wool or silk. The threads of the cloth run- 
ning lengthwise of the material :ire the warp. In weaving, these are placed on the loom 
first, and are usually the stronger, for this reason any part of a garment requiring strength 
should be cut lengthwise of the cloth. The woof threads run across the goods forming the 
selvedge. Selvedge comes from two words, "self" and "edge," meaning an edge made by 
the thread itself. 

Cloth is woven straight, but is often drawn out of shape in pressing. To straighten 
it, pull on the bias first in one direction, and then another, until the piece is straight. 
When you can ravel a thread the width and the length of the cloth, it is straight, or will 
become so after washing. Tear everything that Ciui be torn, when a straight edge is 
needed. Materials that cannot be torn should be cut by a thread. 

Selvedge of cloth is the finished lengthwise edge and cannot be raveled. The raw 
edge Is an edge that is cut or torn. A fold is an edge made by doubling one part of the 



cloth over auotUtr. The uap is the shaggy suhstance on the cloth. A true bias is raaa» 
by layiug the warp thread of the cloth onto a woof thread and cutting ou the fold. 

Weaving. 

Weaving is an art liy wliich threads of any .snlisbince are crossed and interlaced so 
as to form a texture. 

There are four fundamental weaves: phiin, basket, twill and satin. 
In the plain weave the filling or woof thread crosses the warp alternately, one thread 
over, the next under, and so on. 

Basket weave is made by the filling or woof thread crossing over and under the warp 
in groups, repeating the same order. 

Twill weave is made liy the filling or woof thread passing over one warp thread ana 
under two, and so on, in regular order, starting each time with one thread to tlie right 
and above the last, thus giving the diagonal effect. 

Satin weave is a twill, the order of which is so planned that it cannot be detected. 
Besides these weaves there are other kinds which i)roduce double-faced cloth, figured 
weaving, and pile fabrics such as velvets. 

There are materials not woven : felt is an example, made from a kind of wool or fine 
pulp and (iressed. Hhoddy. a ijoor material, made from shreddeil rags of stockiugs, yarns, 
falnnels and other soft woolen fabrics. 

Table of measures with which eacli studeut should be familiar. 
3 feet or 'M inches is one yard. 
(> inches Is one-sixth of a yard. 
inches is one-fourth of a yard. 
32 inches is one-third of a yard. 
IN inches Is one-half of a yard. 
4% inches is one-eighth of a yard. 
-Vi inches is one-sixteenth of a yard. 
The inch on the ruler or taiie line is usu.illy divided into lialves. (juarters, eighths and 
sixteenths. 

The exercises in this book are made of while camlnic. 
Black thread No. 70. 
Needle No. S or 9. 



-5 — 



f 



EXERCISES I— STITCHES. 

Material. — 

6 inches lung liy 4 iiiches wide. 

A stitch is the length of thre;ul exposed. 

Basting. 

Basting is used to hold work in plaie .ind to serve as a guide and is absolntely 
essential to good work. 

Work is never properly finished until the hastiugs are taken out. 

1. Even basting is done by making stitches and spaces between them of the same 
length. 

2. Uneven basting is done by making long stitches with short spaces between them. 

3. Side stitch basting is done by making long slanting stitches with short side spaces 
between them. 

Begin basting with a knot on the upper side at the right end of the cloth, and finish 
at the opposite end by taking two or three stitches in the same place. Work from right 
to left. 

Do not sew through a basting thread. Always sew very near and just below the 
basting. 

Running. 

4. Running is used for seams which do not require great strength, also for liasting, 
tucking and gathering. 

Running is done by working the needle in and out of the material, keeping the 
stitches and spaces the same length, and taking several stitches at a time. 

Rule. — Take up two threads of the cloth and skip two : however, the general principle 
is to pass over as much of the cloth as you take up. 

Make a knot ; begin at the right side of the cloth. Hold the material between the 
thumb and first finger of each hand. Fasten by slipping the needle to the underside and 
taking two or three stitches in the .same place. 

Backstitching. 

Backstitehing is used in seams where greater strength is required than the single 
stitch can give; also in outlining designs. 

Backstitching is made by a short stitch to the right on the upper side of the cloth, 
and a stitch twice as long to the left on the underside. Stitches on the upper side should 
meet. Fasten thread on the wrong side by sewing over last stitch several times. 

Half backstitching is made in the same way as baclvstitching, except that the needle 
is taken half way back instead of all the way back to the last stitch. 

Overcasting. 

Overcasting is usetl over the raw edges of clotli to jirevent raveling. 

Overcasting is made one-eighth inch deep .ind one-fourth inch apart ; the stitch is 
long and slanting. 

Hold the work along the first finger of the left hand. Pass the needle through the 
cloth from the under side, pointing the needle toward the left shoulder, drawing it out 
toward the right .lud pulling the stitch only moderately tight. 

The stitch will be much more uniform if care is taken to throw the thread in the 
same direction before taking each stitch. Begin with a knot and fasten by sewing over 
the last stitch several times or by making a back stitch on the wrong side. 



i 



EXERCISE II— STITCHES. PUTTING ON A BAND. 

Material. — ■ 

5 Inches long by 5 Inches wide. 

Band 2% inches long by 1 % inches wide. 

Hemming. 

A hem is a fold made by twice doubling the edge of material, and then sewing it 
down. It is used to finish the edge on which it is made. 

Turn the first fold from one-eighth to one-fourth inch, creasing it perfectly flat. 
Then fold again the desired width of the hem and baste near the edge of the first fold 
with uneven basting stitches. 

The second turning should be measured witii a card or piece of i)aper to keep it even. 

In folding the hem of a square or oblong, first finish the two opposite sides, then 
the other two sides. Always where two hems meet, make one hem before lieginning the 
other. 

li'or a narrow hem. the first turn will be about the same width .is the secoiKl. 

When a wide hem is required, baste along both folds of the hem: do this espeiially 
with wool material. 

Hold the work across the left fore-finger with the larger i)art of the cloth toward 
you. Hegin by pointing the needle toward the left, at the right hand side of the cloth, put- 
ting it through two threads of the first fold; draw the thread through, bringing the end 
of the thread or small knot underneath the fold. Next time the needle should point over 
the middle of the left thumb, towards the chest. Take up one or two threads of the cloth 
and one or two threads of the fold, keeping the needle on a line with the hem. The slant 
and size of the stitches must he kept uniform. Fasten the thread by sewing over the last 
stitch in the fold two or three times. 

Napery, French or Damask Hem. 

This hem is used for hemming table linen. Fold material for an ordinary narrow 
hem then fold it back at the line of the first turn with the hem towards you. Sew as 
in overhanding. When finished, raise the hem and rub it flat. 

Overhandlng. 

There are several names for this stitch, as overseaming, oversewing and toijsewing. 

It is used to join folded or selvage edges as in a patch; uniting seams and selvages 
for underclothing and bed linen ; henmiing table linen ; sewing on lace, etc. 

Overhanding is done by sewing very closely over the edges of the cloth. 

The work is held between the thumb and first finger of the left hand, the band al 
ways being over the work and the seam parallel with the first finger. The second finger 
keeps the cloth firmly in place. Never hold the work over the finger, as it will cause the 
seam to pucker. 

Begin at the right hand end of the .seam, inserting the needle in the edge nearest yon. 
Take up two threads of the cloth. Draw the thread through, leaving half an inah of 
thread. Hold the thread down with the thumb and first finger of the left hand. Point 
the needle towards the chest, put it through both ed.ges. taking up about two threads on 
each fold or selvage. The shape of the stitch is like the letter N. the slanting part is 
on the top of the seam. Fasten the thread by sewing over the List stitch several times. 

Gathering. 

The standard rule for gathering, is to take half as much material on the needle as 
you leave under. Follow a thread in the goods. 

Divide the material into halves (also quarters if a long ruffle), and mark these 
divisions with a small notch, or cross stitch. 

—9— 



GatUeriug is done on the right side. Begin in tlie middle, using a heavy or double 
thread, and gather each way. leaving the thread a few inches longer than the goods. 
Remove the needle and make knot in the end of the thread. 

Stroking. 

Stroking means laying gathers in place. 

Place a pin in vertically, close to the last stitch taken. Draw the threads carefully 
and as tightly as possilile and wind them around the pin in the shape of the letter "S" 
uutil securely held. Hold the gathers in the left hand at the end of the gathering with 
the thumb and first finger of the left hand. With the right hand pull all the gathers 
between the left thumb and fore-finger pinching very tightly. Formerly this was done 
with a pin, but the pin often scratches and some times tears the material. 

Putting on a Band. 

A band should be cut lengthwise of the cloth, because it is the stronger way. 

If the band is short divide it into halves: if long, into quarters. 

Pin the baud to the wrong side of the gathers (middle of the gathers to the middle 
of the band), holdiug the gathered side toward you. 

Arrange the fullness evenly, pin vertically in several places and baste on the line of 
gathering being careful to keep the edges of the band and the gathers even. 

Half backstitch just below the basting. Fasten very securely. 

Turn down one-fourth inch all around the band and double the band over so that it 
just covers the line of back stitching, baste this down. Overhand the ends and hem the 
band down right over the line of half backstitchlng, care being taken not to allow the 
stitches to show on the right side. 



—10— 



EXERCISE III— SEAMS. 

Material. — 

2 strips 4 inches long by 1% incbes wide. 

1 strip 4 inches long by ."5 inches wide, cnt in two lengtlnvise on :i diagoniil line, 
beginning 1 inch from upper right hiind corner to a point 1 inch from lower 
left hand corner. 
A seam is a line of sewing used to join two or more pieces of cloth. It may be made 
on the bias or straight edge of the goods. 

Overcasted Seam. 

This seam may be used in heavy or wool material. 

Sew a Vi inch seam with half back-stitches, then overcast it. 

French Seam. 

French seam is a seam within a seam. It is used on thin material and under- 
clothing. 

Place together the wrong sides of the pieces to be joined. Baste one-eighth inch from 
the edge of the cloth. Sew with the running stitch just below the basting. TaUe out the 
basting. Trim the edges of the seam and turn the seiim inside of the cloth and crease at 
the line of sewing. Baste so that raw edges are enclosed and backstitch just below this 
basting, taking care that no raveliiifis can be seen on the right side. 

French Fell Seam. 

A fell seam is a seam hemmed down to protect the edges. It is used on underclothing 
or where great strength and neatness are required. 

Place together the right sides of the pieces to be joined, with one edge one-eighth of 
an inch below the other and baste one-quarter inch from the edge. Sew with the half 
back stitch just below the basting. Take out the basting and press the seam open. Turn 
the wide edge over the narrow to form a hem. Baste the seam flat to the cloth, and hem. 

Flannel Seam. 

The flannel seam is used on flannel or heavy material and flannel patch. Prepare 
the plain seam for over-casting, but do not over-east. Open the seam flat and baste flat 
to the cloth. Herringbone stitch over the raw edge of both sides of the seam about one- 
eighth Inch deep and close together. 

Bound Seam. 

Bound seams may be done with a bias strip, ribbon or tape. 

Binding the Entire Seam. 

This method is used on the armholes of garments or wherever it is not feasible to 
open the seam and bind each edge separately. 

ITse a bias strip three-fourths of an inch wide. Place the bias binding one-eighth of 
an inch from the edge of the seam and baste in place. Sew with a combination stitch 
through the three thicknesses of cloth one-fourth inch from the edge. Turn in one-eighth 
inch on the other side of the binding and hem down just above the stitching on the other 
side of the seam. 

Open Bound Seam. 

Used in a boned waist and sometimes to finish seams of skirt. 

Trim and press seam open. Double the binding ribbon through the center and crease. 
Place the raw edge of the seam to the fold of the ribbon and run along the edge, being 
sure to catch through to the under fold. 

Notched Seam. 

Heavy materials which do not ravel (such as broad cloth) may be uotchetl instead 
of overcasting or binding. 

—11— 



EXERCISE IV— BUTTONHOLES, BUTTONS. HOOKS AND EYES. 

Material. — 

6 Inches long by 3% inche.s wide. 
3 inches long by 3^4 inches wide. 
Buttonholes and buttons, hooks and eyes, loops and eyelets are used in fastening 
clothing. 

Buttonholes. 

Buttonholes are always worked on the right baud side of girls' and women's cloth- 
ing and on the left band side of boys' and men's clothing in the double thickness of 
material. 

Cutting.— Cut the slit by a thread of the cloth and a trifle larger than the diameter 
of the button. Never cut more than one buttonhole at a time and finish this one before 
going on with the next. 

Buttonholes are generally cut one-fourth of an inch from the edge of the garment ; 
however, this depends on the garment. 

All buttonholes which will have to bear strain must be made crossways of the goods 
or horizontally. Under this head are those on the back of waists, cuffs of sleeves, collar 
bands of shirtwaists and shirts, bands of under and outer skirts. 

Those buttonholes which will have no strain upon them may be made upright or 
vertically. T'nder this head are those in the front of shirtwaists and shirts, plackets of 
sleeves and at the back of babies' loose robes. 

First mark the space for the top and bottom buttons and then divide etpially the 
space between for the number of buttons. 

Barring or Stranding. — With the folded edge from you. place the slit across the left 
forefinger. Begin in the lower right hand corner, fasten the thread with a back stitch. 
Turn the cloth and take a short running stitch across the end of the slit three or four 
threads from the cut. Then turn the cloth again and take another across the opposite 
end, bringing the needle out at the starting point. This is used to keep the buttonhole 
straight and firm. 

Overcasting. — This is done two or three tlireads deep just over the barring stitches 
to hold the double thickness together and keep the edges from raveling; be sure to bring 
the needle out at the starting point. 

Buttonhole-stitch or Purl.— Draw the needle half way through just over the l)arriug 
stitch with the needle pointing toward you. 

Take the two threads at the eye of the needle, bring them toward you at the right 
of the needle, then under the point of the needle and from you. Draw the needle and 
thread out, at right angles to the split so that the twist or purl comes at the top edge of 
the cut. Continue in this manner, leaving abbut a thread of cloth between each stitch. 
Keep the stitches even. Work the first buttonhole round at both ends. Work in a fan 
Shape, taking about five stitches. Fasten the thread by putting the needle down through 
the purl of the first stitch taken and taking a few running stitches on the wrong side 
or by sewing over a running stitch several times. 

Vertical buttonholes should have both ends the same. They may be ro\inded or 
barred at both ends. This bar is made the same as for loops In wool material it is 
better to bar the buttonhole on the machine and then cut it. This holds the cut much 
firmer. 

Loops. 

Loops are often made f<u- a button to pass through, for a hook to fasten in, for the 
end bar of a buttonhole, and in embroidery. 

Begin with a knot, bring the needle up from the wrong side, and take three or four 
stitches over one another the length of the loop to be made. 

Cover these strands with the blanket stitch working from right to left. Fasten by 
putting the needle through the last stitch; draw the thread to the wrong side and take 
two or three short stitches over each other. 

—13— 



Eyelet Holes. 

An eyelet is a small hole worked with the overhand or buttonhole stitch, to receive 
a small cord or stud, and as embroidery eyelets for dresses and doilies. 

Make a small opening with a stilletto, breaking as few threads as possible. Hold this 
opening over the fore-finger of the left hand and sew over and over closely and evenly, 
occasionally using the stilletto to keep the hole i-ound. Or the hole may be worked with 
the buttonhole stitch. 

For embroidery, after piercing the hole, take a sharp pointed pair of scissors cut 
one-sixteenth of an inch at four points — top, bottom, and each side of the hole. Turn 
these points under with the needle and sew as before, fastening the thread by taking two 
back stitches on the wrong side. 

Sewing on Buttons. 

Use a knot and double thread. Put the needle through the cloth from the upper side, 
lay the button over the knot and with a pin over the button, sew through the holes until 
they are moderately filled up. 

Draw the pin out and raise the button from the garment, loosening the stitches. 
Wind the thread around these stitches several times — this is known as stemming. Stem- 
ming allows ample room for the liuttonhole to lie flat under the button, also protects the 
stitches, 

A button with two holes should be placed on the garment so that the sewing will be 
parallel with the buttonhole. 

A button with a shank should lie sewed with the stit<-hes parallel with the edge of the 
material, 

A button .sewed too tightly makes a dent in the cloth which often results in the but- 
ton coming off, liringing a piece of material with it. 

Buttonholes should always be made before sewing on buttons. To mark the place 
for the buttons, lay the right sides of the garment together, and put pins through the 
outer ends of the buttonholes, taking great care to have the pins exactly opposite the 
buttonholes. 

Hooks and Eyes. 

Hooks and eyes take the place of buttons and liuttouholes for fastening garments. 
Begin with a knot on the wrong side. Place the hook on the wrong side one-fourth inch 
from the edge, holding it firmly ", closely overhand the rings to the garment. The back of 
the hook near the upper end is sewed over and over to make it lie flat on the cloth. 
Fasten securely by se\^ing three or four stitches in the same place at one side of the 
hook. 

I'lace the eye a little beyond the edge on the wrong side of the garment. Sew eye 
on in the same way as the hook, overhanding closely the rings on either side. Slip the 
needle between the folds and with two or three stitches fasten each side of the eye to the 
edge of the fold. 

To mark the place for straight eyes. Pins may be placed in the cloth and the garment 
hooked up, then unhooked and the eyes sewed in the place of the pins. 

Sewing on Tape. 

It is used on towels. Double the tape so as to form a point. Lay the ends beside 
each other on the wrong side of the towel so that the ends are just even with the end of 
the towel. Stitch one-fourth inch from the end. Make a small turning and hem to the 
towel on four sides. 



—14— 



EXERCISE V— PLACKETS. 

Material. — 

4 inches long by .5i/^ inches wides. 
First Placket. — Material 4% inches long by 1% inches wide. 
Second Placket. — Material 3 inches long by 1^ inches wide. 
Material 3 inches long selvage by % inch wide. 
Third Placket. — Material 4% inches long by 1 inch wide. 

Material 3 inches long by 1 inch wide. 
A placket is an opening in a garment to allow ease in putting the garment on and 
taking it off. 

Bound Placket. 

(1) This placket is used on undergarments and wash dresses. 

A bound placket is made by sewing a lengthwise piece of material (twice the length 
of the opening) around the opening with a very narrow seam, right sides together. The 
left edge of this strip is turned under a seam's width and hemmed on the previous line 
of sewing. The right side is folded back a little less than half of the width. Cut out the 
piece and hem the piece to the material with two rows of hemming across the lower end. 

Placket With an Extension Hem on One Side and a Flat Facing on the Other. 

(2) This placket may be used on wool dresses or carefully tailored garments. 

On the left side of the placket sew the strip the same as the first placket only 
allowing it to extend down the seam about one Inch past the end of the opening. On the 
right side use the selvage strip sewing it down the seam, with the right sides together. 
Allow it to extend one inch below the end of the opening. Sew the end of the opening 
securely on the wrong side with two or three stitches. Sew the two pieces of the placket 
together at the lower end. 

Placket for Shirt or Shirt Waist. 

(3) Used for shirt waist, shirt sleeves and night gown opening. 

Sew the strip that is twice the length of the opening around the opening. Right side 
of the strip held next to the wrong side of the sleeve so the seam will couic on the right 
side. Crease the strip flat at the line of sewing. Also crease a narrow seam on the op- 
posite side. Turn the strip back onto the narrow piece of the sleeve allowing it to extend 
past the opening the width of the seam. Stitch this firmly into place. On the other side 
place the cap and stitch it firmly putting two rows of stitching across the top. 



—15— 



EXERCISE VI— GUSSET. 

Material. — 

4 inches long by 4 iiiclies wide. 
1% inches long by 1% inches wide. 

Gusset. 

Gussets are used in shirts, drawers and other finnueiils at llu' end <if an oiicninK 
where additional strength is needed. 

Fold the cloth lengthwise through the middle, and cut down the fold 2V2 inches. 
Make narrow hems on both sides of the opening, sloping them to a point .it the lower ejid. 

On the one and one-half inch square fold down one corner three-fourths of an incli 
on the sides and cut it off. Turn a fold one-eighth of an inch all around this jnece. 
Place the corner which is opposite the diagonal cut to the middle of this cut and crease. 

To sew in the gusset, place the apex of the triangle to the end of the oi)enin^, making 
sure that the right side of the guisset lies against the right side of the material. Overhand 
on the wrong side to the crease before made. 

Fold the remaining part over to the wrong side, baste and hem. 



-17- 



EXERCISE VII— PATCHING. 

Material. — 

3% Inches long by 5 inches wide. 

2 patches 2 inches long by 2 inches wide. 

Patch. 

A patch is a piece of cloth sewed onto a garment or hoiisehold article tn reiuiir it. 

Overhand Patch. 

The overhand patch is used on very thin material, such as organdy or dimity, where 
strength is not required and where two thicknesses nroinid the hemmed patch would be 
too noticeable. 

The worn or torn part is cut out in a square rectangle. A bias cut one-fourth inch 
deep is made at each of the corners. The edges just cut are folded down on the wrong 
side. The patch should be large enough to cover the hole and about three-eighths inch be- 
yond it on all sides. 

Crease a turn in the four sides of the patch so it will just fit. Then cut across each 
corner of the patch one-fourth of an inch deep. Place the folded edges of the patch upon 
the garment, with the warp of the two pieces parallel. Overhand the two warp sides and 
then the two woof. Crease open the seams carefully and overcast the raw edges. Dampen 
the seams and press on the wrong side. 

Hemmed Patch. 

The hemmed patch is the stronger and most commonly used in repairing garments. 

Prepare the hole as before. Place the patch under the hole with the warp of the two 
pieces parallel and down the folded edges. Care must be taken to match the pattern 

exactly. 

Hem the garment to the patch. On the wrong side match the pattern, neatly fold 
and baste the patch to the garment, and hem all the way aroinul. 



—19- 



EXERCISE VIM— DARNING. 

Material. — 

Card board 2Vi inche.s siiuiiiv. 

Black Stockinet 3 inches square. 

White Darning Cotton. Darning needle No. 7. 

Wool Material .S% inches long hy 3 inches wide. 

No. A Sewing Silk and No. 9 Needle. 

Darning. 

Darning is an attempt to strengthen a worn or weak ijortiou of clothing, or to draw 
together the edges of a tear or cut. 

Stocking Darning. 

The heel and toe should be darned on a rounded surface, the leg on a flat surface. 
A darn may conform to the shai.e of the hole or be made diamond shaped. The darning 
may be done on the right or wrong side but looks neater done on the right suie. 

Put in the warp threads first, making a few small running stit,hes beyond the edge 
of the hole in irregular rows, so that the strain will not come on any one set of threads, 
then cover the hole with long stitches very near together, finish the opposite side of the 
darn with as many rows as on the first. Give special attention to the edge of the hole 
passing first over and then under the edge, that there may be no ridges. 

Beginning at the top as far above the hole as necessary for strength, put in the 
threads representing the woof laying them close enough together to make a solid piece ot 
weaving over the hole. 

The woof threads are put in by putting the needle over and under the warp threads in 
succession. Always put the left thumb on the thread as it is being drawn out; tins holds 
the stocking firmly and prevents puckering. Leave a loop of the darning cotton at the 
end of every row to allow for the working up into the cloth and for shrinking in washing. 

Cloth Darning. 

This may be done with thread, hair or raveliugs on the right side without a knot. 
Use the running stitch for this darn passing over one edge of the tear and under the 
other Reverse the order of the stitches every time and be careful not to draw the 
threads tight enough to pucker. Make the darn no larger than nec-essary, but begin and 
finish by taking several stitches beyond the ends in order to protect them. 

It is often better to darn the edges together with large stitches if the material is much 
strained; when the darn is finished remove these threads. 

If the tear is jagged or raveled, put a piece of the material under the tear and darn 
the garment to it. The grain of the cloth as well as the pattern must match. When the 
darn is finished sew it lightly in place with the running stitch. All cloth darns must 
be dampened and presseil with a hot iron on the wrong side. 

Kid Glove Mending. 

When sewing ripped seams use the overhand or back stitch, according to the manner 
in wJiich the seam is made. In patching, place a piece of the kid under the hole and hem 
neatly on the right side. Always use cotton thread in patching or sewing kid gloves. 
Sewing silk cuts the kid. 



—21— 



EXERCISE IX— BIAS. 

Material — 

Cambric 4 Inches square. 
Pasteboard 2 Inches by 3 inches. 

Cutting Bias. 

A bias is a diagonal cut, a choice bias Is a true bias, having a twill of the cloth 
at right angles to the cut. To cut a true bias fold over the corner of the cloth so 
that the warp and woof threads are exactly parallel and cut along the slanting fold. 

In cutting a bias fold, facing or binding, measure from the diagonal cut in several 
places the •'esired widtli and draw a line. Continue marking from last line drawn 
until the desired number are made. Cut along these lines and trim the ends straight 
with a warp thread. 

To join the ends evenly, the seam must begin at the vertex of one of the angles 
formed at the side by the two pieces of cloth and finishd at the other. 

Pressing Bias Folds for Underwear. 

Cut the bias strips twice the width of the desired fold plus one-fourth inch (usually 
about three-fourths Inches wide). Trim the ends, stitch the strips together, and press 
the seams open. 

Cut a short strip of cardboard the width of the desired fold. Fold around it 
two times a thin piece of cardboard (postal card is about right) and paste the edges 
down. When dry remove the heavy card that is inside and in place of it run the 
bias, folded with raw edges meeting in the center. Tress with a hot iron as you push 
the card along, forming and pressing the fold at the same time. Two people can malie 
the fold more quickly, one folding and slipping the card along, and the other pressing 
the fold. 



-23- 



EXERCISE X— LACE AND EMBROIDERY MATCHING. 
Material — 

Lace 5 inches long. 

Embroidery 6 inches long. 

Cambric 5 inches wide by 6 inclies long. 

Lace Matching. 

In joining lace avoid a seam if possible, place one design over the other and whip 
the edges down with very fine stitches. 

Sewing on Lace. 

When sewing lace to an edge, place the two right sides together, always holding 
the lace next to you and overhand the edges together. Hold the lace loosely. 

Lace may be put on straight or gathered. At the top of most laces a coarse thread 
is woven into the lace for the purpose of gathering. Before drawing up this thread, 
divide the lace and the edge upon which it is to be sewed, into halves, ijuarters. etc.. 
and pin carefully together. Draw up the thread, arrange gathers evenly, and overhand 
to the edge with fine even stitches. 

Sewing Lace Around a Corner. 

In turning corners, leave a little more than twice the width of the lace, as there 
must be enough on the outer edge, to prevent the lace from looping or drawing. When 
sewing gathered lace around the corner the same fullness must be allowed on the 
corner that is allowed on the straight edge, or about two and one-half times the width 
of the lace. 

Embroidery Matching. 

Embroidery may be matched the same as lace, but it is a little better to place 
one design over the other and turn a narrow fold on one piece to the right side and 
on the other piece to the wrong side, and hem down the two edges as in the hemmed 
seam. 

Tucking. 

Crease the first tuck where desired. For the second tuik measure from the first 
and allow twice the width of the tuck plus the desired space between. Repeat for 
successive tucks. It is always better to use the machine tucker. 



-25- 



EXERCISE XI— MITERED CORNERS. 

Material. — 

Paper 6 inches square. 

Mitered Corners. 

To miter a corner is to join two edges so that they form a right angle. I'sed on 
towels, table cloths, doilies, etc. 

First Method. 

Turn and crease a quarter-inch fold on lioth sides. Turn the second fold of the 
hem the desired width (in this case three-fourths inch) on both sides and crease. Open 
out the corner and place a dot where the inner creases cross. Place n second dot a 
quarter of an inch from the first toward the corner. Through this second point draw 
a line passing from side to side, across the corner, being careful that the line is an equal 
distance from the comer on both sides. Out off the corner on this line. Fold both 
hems again on the creases before made and pin the hem on one side in place. Make 
a pin hole as near the exact point where the hems cross as possible, passing through 
both hems. Fold in the bias edge on the hem that is not pinned down, exactly from the 
pin hole to the corner, causing the edges of the two hems to meet at an angle of 
forty-five degrees. (When making of cloth hem the mitered corners down. Imt do 
not catch through the under material.) 

Second Method. 

Fold the hem the desired width as in the first method and crease hard. Draw a line 
across the under hem where the upper hem crosses it. Open the paper and cut a rec- 
tangle one-fourth inch from this line and from the edge of the under hem, cutting toward 
the corner. Fold the square corners down. (When making of cloth hem the turned over 
edge to the side hem. being careful not to catch the right side. ) • 



-27- 



EXERCISE XII— FANCY STITCHES. 

Material. — 

6 iuches loug by 4 inches wide. 

Silkateen. . 

Needle. Crewel No. 7. 

Blanket Stitch. 
The blanket stitch is often used to ornament the edge of flannel and blankets, 
hence its name. Do not confuse with buttonhole stitch. It is work from left to right, 
and the buttonhole stitch from right to left. 

Hold the work over the left forefinger with the edge of material toward you. Work 
from left to right. Take several running stitches the desired depth of the blanket 
stitch on the wrong side, pointing needle to the left. Bring needle to the right side, 
insert it again at the same point as before, making a loop by bringing the needle out over 
the thread and draw the loop thus made to the edge of the cloth. Repeat for succes- 
sive stitches. On flannel, the stitches should be about as far apart as the depth of 
the stitches. 

The blanket stitch placed close together is used in finishing embroidery. The 
work should be done before the work is cut. The blanket stitch is also used for 
scallops, buttonhole bar and the loop for hook.s. 

To Mark for Scallops. 
Use a stencil or else two spools of differnet sizes — carefully notch spools the de- 
sired size of scallops, and then draw around the edges. 

French Knots. 

French knots are used to ornament. 

Bring needle through from underneath and with needle in the right hand, take 
hold of the thread with the left about one inch from cloth, hold it light and winding 
several times around the point of the needle. Return the needle to within two threads of 
the same hole through which it came out. 

Cross Stitch. 

The cross stitch is used in marking underclothing, holding bands to the seams of 
waists and sometimes in fancy work. 

The stitch consists of two slanting parts crossing each other on the right side of 
the material, and of two straight lines either vertical or horizontal on the vvrong side 
of material. The needle is brought out on one side and put through to the other 
diagonally forming one-half of the stitch, it is now crossed in the opposite way. The 
crossing must all be in one direction and the wrong side neat. 

Catch or Herringbone Stitch. 

The herringbone stitch is used to secure the raw edges of flannel or heavy ma- 
terial, serving the purpose of overcasting over a raw edge and that of hemming. 

The stitch is worked from you. The stitch consists of single alternating running 
stitches made first to the right and then to the left, the thread being carried across 
from one stitch to the next, giving the appearance of a cross-stitch. On each side the 
stitches must be in straight rows. The stitches should be small and regular, those 
slanting in the same direction should be always either to the top or the bottom. 

Outline or Kensington Stitch. 
The Kensington stitch is used to follow the line of a design for ornamentation. 
It is worked from you and consists of a long stitch taken forward on the right 
side and a short stitch backward on the wrong side. Point the needle toward you, 
taking a short running stitch directly on the line, keeping the thread always on the 
right side of the needle, except on a line curving sharply to the left when the thread 
will fall more naturally to the left side. The length of the stitch is determined by 

—29— 



the size of the thread and the line to be covered. A curved line reijuires a shorter stitch 
than a straight one. 

Chain Stitch. 

The chain stitch is used to outline designs, ornament or mark sarmeuts. 

Hold work over left forefinger and sew from top to bottom, with the point of the 
needle always toward the worker. Draw the needle through from underneath. Insert 
again at the same point and take up on the needle, cloth for the desired length of 
stitch and draw the needle out over the thread. In placing the needle for succeeding 
stitches, begin Inside the preceding stitch. 

Half Chain Stitch. 

The half chain stitch is very effective wherever the fine outline stitch is used or 
for stems of flowers. 

It is made the same as the chain, except the needle is inserted just outside and 
to the right of the loop instead of in the end of the loop. 

Feather Stitching. 

Feather stitching is used for ornamenting garments, sofa pillows, collars, etc. 

The stitch consists of alternating stitches or groups of stitches, slanting toward a 
center line. The stitch may be varied greatly by the length of the stitch, the slant 
of the stitch and the number of stitches on each side. Care must be taken to keep 
the length and slant of the stitches uniform. Working toward you. with a knot in 
the thread, insert the needle from the underside a short distance to the right or left 
of the line the feather stitching is to follow (this is known as the center line) and 
draw the thread through. Place left thumb over thread to hold It down, and on 
the opposite side take a slanting stitch, the top of which is as far from the center 
line as the length of the stitch, and the bottom touching the center line. Draw needle 
out over the thread which will thus form a loop of the thread from the first stitch. 
On the opposite side take up another slanting stitch, the top of vi'hich Is an equal dis- 
tance from the center line and even with the bottom of the last stitch. Repeat for suc- 
cessive stitches. 

Double Feather Stitching. 

Double feather stitching consists of alternating groups of two, three or more 
stitches instead of one stitch. The successive stitches of eacli group must be placed 
directly under the first stitch of the group. 

Hemstitching. 

Hemstitching is a fancy method of hemming. Measure from the edge of the cloth 
twice the width of the desired hem when finished, and draw several threads depend- 
ing on the texture of the material. Draw one thread at a time, and draw it out 
Che entire length of the cloth. Carefully baste the hem, bringing the edge of the 
first fold up to the lower edge of the space where the threads have been taken out. 

Work from left to right, and always on the wrong side. 

Hold the work over and parallel with the left forefinger. 

Fasten the thread in the hem, pointing the needle towards the left, pick up four 
or five threads of the cloth; draw the thread out from you, then insert the needle in 
the fold of the hem exactly below where the threads were first picked up. 

Hold the hem firmly with the left thumb, and draw toward you rather tightly ; 
continue in this manner until all the threads have been taken up. Fasten by overhand- 
ing back over the last four or five stitches. 



-30— 



PLAIN DRAWERS. 
Measuremeuts. Trial. Self. 

Waist. 

Hip. 

Length. 
Fold paper, place fold on the left. 

A. Mark fold A. 

B. Edge toward you B. 

C. Measure up on A from B length of drawers, draw C parallel to B. 

D. Measure down A from C one-half length plus one and one-half inches and 
draw D parallel to B. 

E. One-half of hip measure on D from A. 

F. One-half of waist minus three inches on C from A. Raise one inch. Connect 
intersection of A and C with F. Connect E and F. 

G. One and one-half inches to the right of this line on C place a point. Kaise 
this point three inches. Connect intersection of A and C with G, also E and G. 

H. Thirteen inches from A on B. Connect H and E with dotted line. 
I. Find half of dotted line and measure to the left three-fourths inch. Draw curve 
from E through I to H. 

Seams allowed on this pattern. 

YOKE. 

A-B. Waist plus five inches divided. 

C-D. by four equals square, l.'onstruct square. 

B. Two inches below A on line A-B. 

F. Three inches below E on line A-B. 

G. One and one-half inches from C on line A-C. 
H. Two and one-half inches from C on line C-1). 

Connect E and G with dotted line. 

Connect G and II. 
I. One-half inch from H on line (Ml. 

Connect F and I with dotted line. 
J. Find center of E-G and place point one-half inch lielow. 

Connect E and G with slightly curved line passing through J. 
K. Find center of F-I, place point one-half inch below. 

Connect P and I with slightly curved line passing through K. 
Seams allowed on this pattern. 

CIRCULAR DRAWERS. 
Measurements. Trial. Self. 

Waist. 

Hip. 

Length. 
Fold paper, place fold on the left. 

A. Mark fold A. 

B. Edge toward you B. 

C. Measure up on A from B length of drawers, draw C parallel to B. 

D. Measure down on A one-half of the length, draw D parallel to B. 

E. Measure down on A from D one-fourth of the length, draw E parallel to B. 

P. Measure up on A from C two and one-half inches and draw F parallel to B. 

G. Mea.sure on F from A one-fourth of waist plus two inches. Connect intersec- 
tion of A and C with G. 

H. Measure on C one-fourth of waist plus three-fourths inch. Raise one inch. 
Connect intersection of A and C with II. 

I. Measure on 1) from A one-halt' of hip plus one and one-half inches. Connect 
H and I, also G and I with dotted lines. 

—31— 



J. Find center of H-I. Measure in two inches. Connect II and I with slightly 
curved line passing through J. 

K. Measure up from I on G-I four and one-lialf iuclies, tlien in tliree-fourtlis inch. 
Connect G-I with slightly curved line passing through K. 

L. Measure on E from A one-half of hiii. plus three inches. Connect I and L. 

M. Connect intersection of A and B with L, using dotted line and find the center. 

N. Measure two inches out from M. Draw curved line from intersection of A and B 
through N to L. 

Seams allowed on this pattern. 



FIVE. GORE UNDERSKIRT. 



Measures. 
Length. 
Hip. 

Distance around bottom. 



Trial. 



Self. 









Table. 




Front 




Side 


Back 


Hip 
1-10 


Bottom 
1-10 


Hip 
1-5 


Bottom Hip + Fullness 
l-fi-l- 2 in. or 
1-5 1-5-f 6 in. 


Bottom-f Fullness 
1-5-1-3 in. or 
l-5-f9 in. 



A. Left edge of paper. 

B. Drawn two inches from top of paper at right angles to A. 

C. Drawn five inches below B and parallel to B. 

D. Length of skirt measured from B on A drawn parallel to B. 

E. One-tenth of hip on C from A. 

F. One-tenth of Ijottom on D from A. Connect E and F, extending to top of 
paper and mark X. 

A2. Construct A2 parallel to A by measuring on 1> one-fourth inch to the right of X. 

G. One-fifth of hip on C from A2. 

H. One-fifth of bottom on D from A2. Connect <! and H, extending to top of 
paper and mark X2. 

A3. Construct A3 parallel to A by measuring on D one-fourth inch to the right 
of X2. 

I. One-fifth of hip plus two inches (if gathered skirt is desired add six inches) 
on C from A3. 

J. One-fifth of bottom plus three Inches (if gathered skirt add nine inches) on 
D from A3. Connect I and J, extending to lop of paper and mark X3. 

Hip curves are made on all A lines except for front gore and on all X lines ex- 
cept for back gore. 

K. Measure in on B from X one-half inch. Connect E and K with line curving 
slightly out. 

LMN. Repeat on A2, X2, A3 the same as for K. 

Raise X above B one-fourth inch, X2 one-half inch, X3 one inch. 

Connect tops of all gores. 

Remeasure long lines. 

X and A2 should be one-fourth inch longer than A. 

X2 and A3 should be one-half longer than A. 

X3 should be one inch longer than A. Draw bottom curves. 

Seams allowed on this pattern. 



—32— 



SHIRTWAIST DRAFT. 

Measurements. Trial. Self- 

Length. ItoiiuJ. ITW- Self. 

Back. Waist. 

Front. Neck 

Tnderarm. Wltlth of Back. 

^ , Width of Chest. 
Test. 

Neck. 

Shoulder. 

Armhole. 

Back. 

AB. Length of back plus one-half inch drawn one inch from left edge of paper. 
beginning two Inches below top. 

AC. One-half length of bust measure plus one-half inch, drawn to right of A at 
right angles to AB. Construct a rectangle. 

D. Half AB. Draw a line to the right of D parallel to AC (Imst line). 

E. Half AD. Draw a line to the right of E pnraliel to AC (chest line). 
P. One-half inch below A on line AB. 

G. Width of neck according to table of measures, to the right of A on line AC. 
Small neck 12 — 1% inches. 
Medium neck 13 — 2 inches. 
Large neck 14 — 2% inches. 

Connect F and G with slightly curved line. 

H. Measure three-fourths inch to the right of B on the construction waist line 
for depression at center back and place H. Connect F and H for pattern line, extending 
it four inches below the waist for bascjue. 

I. Measure one-half width of back on the chest line to the right of the pattern 
line and place I. 

J. Erect a perpendicular at I. the length of the back neck measure. Measure 
to the right at the end of the perpendicular three-eighths inch and place J. Connect 
G and J. Connect J and I with slightly curved line. 

K. Measure on bust line to right of pattern line one-fourth of bust measure minus 
two inches and place K. 

L. Measure on construction vraist line to right of H. one-fourth of waist measure 
minus one inch and place L. 

LK2. Draw a line the length of tniderarm plus three-quarters of an inch from 
L through K and place K2. Connect I and K2 with curved line. 

Front. 

Drop a dotted perpendicular from K2 to the waist line. 

L2. Measure on the waist line to the left of the dotted line three-eighths inch aud 
place L2. 

L2K3. Draw a line the length of under arm plus three-fourths inch from L2 
through K2 and place K3. 

Place a point half way between L and L2. From this point droji a i)erpeudicular 
four inches long. Measure to the right and to the left of the end of this perpendicular, 
three-fourths inch. Draw hip curves from L and L2 to these points. 

F2. Measure on the center front line from C the back neck measure plus three- 
fourths inch and place F2. 

<;2. Measure to the left of C on line AC the back neck measure plus one-half 
inch and place G2. 

G2F2. Draw a dotted line from G2 to F2. Find the center of this line and draw 
a perpendicular to the left from this point three-fourths inch long. Draw neck curve 
from G2 to F2 passing through this point. 

Draw a .short line from center front line parallel to AC, one-tbird of the distance be- 
tween A and E, below AC. 

— 33 — 



G2J2. Place the toriier of the square ou G2, touch the short parallel line, draw 
the frout shoulder one-fourth inch shorter than the back and place J2. 

12. Measure on the chest line to the left of the center front one-half of chest 
measure and place 12. Connect J2 and 12 with slightly curved line. Connect G2 and 
L2 with dotted line. 

M. Measure on the center front line below F2 the length of front and place M. 

N. Measure to the right of the bust line three-fourths inch and place N. Draw 
pattern line from F2 through N the length of front plus four inches. Draw a curved 
waist line from L2 thnnigh M to pattern line. Place the corner of the square on 
M, touch at the intersection of the dotted line and bust line. Draw a line extending 
one and one-fourth inches above intersection and place O. Draw a line from 12 through 
O, continuing to K3. Complete the bottom of the waist by drawing line parallel to 
waist line at the ends of the four-inch e.xtensions. 

When cuttiilg out material — 

Allow V4 inch seam on neck and armhole and 
1 inch seam on shoulder and underarm. 

SHIRTWAIST SLEEVE. 
Measurements. Trial. Self. 

Length. 
Armhole. 
Width of sleeve. 
Width of cuff. 
Depth of cuff. 

AB. Length of sleeve minus depth of cuff. 

AC. De.sired width of sleeve (measure around the upper arm muscle and add 
four inches). 

CD. Same length as AH and parallel to it. 
BD. .Same length as AC and parallel to it. 

E. One-half of AC drawn from AC to BD parallel to AB. 
B2. Raise one-third of armhole above E. 

E3. Extended three-fourths inch below BD. 

F. One-fifth of arniliole to left of C. 

F2. Raise one-elshth of armhole above F. Draw curve for top of armhole from 
A through E2 and F2 lo C. 

GG2. Measure to either side of center line on BD one-half width of cuff plus two 
Inches (or more according to amount of fullness desired). 

HH2. One-half of A(; and CG2. 

112. One-half inch in from II and 112. Draw slightly curved line from A through 
I to G and from C thronsh 12 to G2. Draw curve for bottom of sleeve from G through 
E3 to (;2. Cut opening for pbiiket one inch toward underside and one-half width of 
cuff when finished, plus one and one-half inches. 

Seams allowed in this pattern. 

Collar Band. 

AB. One inch long at left edge of paper. 

AC. One-half of neck measure, plus one inch drawn at right angles to AB. 
Construct a rectangle. 

D. One-fourth inch lielow A on AB. 

10. Two and one-half inches from C on AC. 

F. One-fourth inch below K. Coimect D and F with straight line. 

G. One inch from C ou AC. Connect F and G with slightly curved line. 
H. One-half iu<h below C. Connect G and H with slightly curved line. 

1. Three-fourths inch below F. Connect H and I with slightly curved line. 
When cutting material, place DB on fold of material and allow one-eighth inch 
seam on all edges. 

—34— 



SEVEN.GORE FOUNDATION SKIRT DRAFT. 

Measurements. Trial. Self 

Waist. 

Hip. 

Dart. 

Length of front. 

Length of side. 

Length of back. 

Table. 
Seven Gore— Vi in.— % in.— % in.— % i"- 
Draw all construction lines tlasli. 
A. Left edge of paper. 

AB. Twelve inches below top of paper drawn at right angles to A, one-twelfth 
of hip measure. (This is hip line.) 

BC. Square down from B sL\ inches. 
CD. Square out from C one-fourth inch. 

E. Connect B and I), extending to the top and bottom of paper. 
BF. Square out from E at B one-sixth of hip measure. 
FG. Square down from F six inches. 
GH. Square out from G one-half inch. 

I. Connect F and H, extending to the top and bottom of paper. 
FJ, JK, KL, M. Construct second side gore the same as first. 
JN, NO, OP, Q. Construct back gore same as the front, except square out from O 
three-eighth inch. 

K. Find the center of hip line. 

S. Erect perpendicular at R six inches long and mark S extending to bottom of 

paper. 

T. Measure down from S the side length of skirt. Find the length of KT and 
measure the same distance below hip line on all long lines. (The length of all gores 
from the hip line down is the same, the difference coming above the hip line.) Draw 
the bottom of the skirt. 

U. From the front length subtract the length of RT. Measure this amount on 

A above B. 

V. Place ruler on I' and S and place V where the ruler cuts E. 

W. Find the difference between the back length and RT. Measure this amount on 

Q above N. 

X. Place ruler on S and W and place X where the ruler cuts M. 
Draw waist line by connecting UVSXW. 
Measure this line. 

Subtract one-half of waist measure from the length of this line. 
At S take out one-half of difference. 

At V take out three-eighths of remainder and at X five-eighths. 
Take a little more off the bias than off the straight side of gore and mark points. 
Draw curves from these points to hip line. 

Any design may be made from this foundation draft before drawing hip curves. 
Nine, eleven and thirteen gores may be made in similar way by using following 
tables : 

Nine— ¥4 in.— % in.— % in.— % in.— % in. 
Eleven— 1/4 in.— % in.— % in.— % in.— % in.— % in. 
Thirteen— 3-16 in.— % in.— Vz in.— 1/2 in.— Vz In.— % in.— % in. 
Allow all seams and hem. 

Long seams two inches. 

Waist one-fourth inch. 

Hem four and one-half inches. 

—35— 



Y — If inverted box pleat is desired square out from W 5 inches. 
Z — Square out from N 5% inches. Connect Y and Z with dotted line extending 
the length of skirt. This line should be the same length as Q. 



SUGGESTIOXS TO TEACHERS. 
Miiterials in Drafting. 

The tape line, drafting paper (36 inches wide) and pencil. Yard stick may be 
used in drafting, but it is much better to use a tailor's square. The long arm should 
be 24 Inches and the short arm 14 inches long. 

Takiug Measurements. 

Correct measurements are necessary for a good pattern, therefore much care 
should be used in takiug them. 

Drawers. 

Waist — Measure around the waist line just snug over the clothing. 

Hip — Measure around the fullest part of the hips or about six inches below waist 
line, snugly as before. 

Length — Measure from the waist line down over the hip to the knee cap. 

Five-(jiore Underskirt. 

Hip — Same as for drawers, and then add three inches, thus allowing necessary 
amount for seams. 

Length — Measure from the waist line in center front down to the floor. Draft 
pattern this length. Before cutting out, measure up from the floor until the desired 
length of skirt is reached. From this subtract one inch for shrinkage and two and 
one-half inches for hem. Measure up on all long lines this distance, draw the bottom 
curve and cut out. In taking girls' lengths be sure to measure their skirts long, 
as they are constantly growing and lengthening their skirts. 

Distance Around Bottom — This should be between two and three yards, according 
to the taste of the person drafting. Eighty inches around a long skirt is a good 
measurement for a narrow skirt. 

(Shirt Waist. 

Length of Back — Measure from the large bone at the back of the neck to the 
waist line. 

Length of Front — About three-fourths of an inch above the hollow at the front 
of the neck begin and measure down to the waist line rather loosely. 

Under Arm — Measure from close up under the arm straight down to waist line. 
The arm should be down at the side when this measure is taken. 

Waist — Measure around the waist, drawing the tape snugly. 

Bust — Measure around under the arms over the fullest part of the bust, keeping 
tape well up under the arms. Take this measure as loosely as the waist is de- 
sired. It is best to stand behind the person in taking this measure. 

Neck — Measure around the base of the neck. 

Width of Back — Measure across the back, from armhole to armhole, about half 
way between base of neck and bust line. 

Width of Chest — Measure across the chest, from armhole to armhole, about half 
way between the base of neck and the bust line. 

Shoulder — Measure from base of neck on top of shoulder to joint where shoulder 
blade and arm bone meet. 

Armhole — Measure loosely around the arm, being careful to measure up on top 
of shoulder. 

Sleeve Length — Measure inside at the front from armhole to wrist. 

Armhole — Same as for waist. 

Width of Sleeve — Measure around the arm, about two inches above the elbow, 
rather loosely. 

Width of Cuff — Measure around the hand over the knuckles, with thumb held 
inside the hand so the hand will slip easily through sleeve. 

Depth of Cuff — This measure is according to taste, from two and one-half to 

three inches. 

-36- 



Skirt 

Waist — Measure around the waist very snugly at the waist line. 

Hip— Measure loosely around the fullest part of the hips, or about six inches 
below the waist line. 

Dart — -Measure from the waist line at the side down to the fullest part of the 
hip. For medium figures this is usually six inches. 

Length of Front — Measure from the waist line in front down to the floor. 

Length of Side — Measure from waist line on side down to the floor. 

Length of Back — Measure from waist line at the back to the floor. 

After skirt draft is finished measure up from the bottom on all long lines the 
desired distance the skirt is to be from the floor. 



ORDER OF MAKraC. GARMENTS. 

Butterfly or Peasant Night Gown. 

Material — 

36 inches wide; muslin, nainsook, longcloth. cambric. 

Twice length from top of shoulder down, allowing 2 inches for hem. 

1. Pin pattern on material and cut. 

2. Baste in the gores and finish long seams. (Use French or fell seam.) 

3. Pit gown to see if neck is large enough and turn hem, pinning carefully 
every 2 inches. 

4. Turn and baste narrow hem around bottom of sleeves, also baste hem at 
the bottom. 

5. Baste bias around neck. 

6. Stitch hems and bias. 

7. Sew lace on neck and sleeves. 

Drawers. 

Material — 

36 inches wide; musiln, nainsook, longcloth, cambric. 
Plain drawers, 1% yards. 
Circular drawers, 1% yards. 

1. Pin pattern on material and cut. 

2. For plain drawers cut yoke and tear band about 3 inches wide and V2 ot 
waist plus 5 Inches long. 

3. For circular drawers tear band 2V2 inches wide and .5 inches longer than 
waist. 

4. Baste and finish the lower seam on each leg. (Use fell seam.) 

5. Baste the two legs together and finish seam. (Use fell seam.) 

6. Make placket. (Use Gusset finish.) 

7. Baste on band and fit to see if band and length are right. 

8. Stitch band. Make buttonhole and sew on button. 

9. If lace is used for trimming make small hem around bottom and sew on lace. 
If embroidery is used put small tuck around bottom of legs and sew embroidery 

so the tuck finishes seam. 

Corset Cover. 

Material^ 

36 inches wide; muslin, nainsook, longcloth, cambric. 
1 yard with belt, 1% yards with peplum. 

1. Tear band 2% inches wide and 3 inches longer than waist. 

2. Pin pattern on material and cut. 

3. Baste under arm and shoulder seams. 

4. Baste box pleat on right side of front and hem on left side. 

5. Gather across top edge of fronts, 

6. Fit corset cover. 

7. Finish seams. (Use French or fell.) Stitch hem and box pleat. 

—37— 



8. If lace is used baste bias around top and around arnihole. If embroidery is 
used baste embroidery on first and then put bias on to cover seam. 

9. Gather around bottom and baste on belt. 

10. Stitch band and bias. 

11. Sew on lace. 

12. Make 4 buttonholes and sew on buttons. 

FiTe-Gore Underskirt. 

Material — 

36 inches wide; muslin, nainsook, longcloth, cambric. 
Three times desired length, allowing 2V2 inches for hem. 

1. Pin pattern on material and cut. 

2. Tear band 2% inches wide and 3 inches longer than waist measure. 

3. Baste seams. 

4. Fit skirt. 

5. Stitch seams. (Use French or fell.) 

6. Make placket. (From 10 to 12 inches long.) 

7. Pin on band and fit again. Turn hem. 

8. Baste band and hem. Stitch both band and hem. 

9. If lace is used for trimming make ruffle and sew on lace. 

10. Gather ruffle or embroidery in quarters. 

11. Baste ruffle onto skirt. 

12. Cover seam with bias or make a tuck and stitch down. 

13. Put on hangers. Make buttonhole and sew on button. 

Shirt Waist. 

Material — 

36 inches wide; percale, madras, linen, 2 yards; if narrow, 2% yards. 

1. Baste box pleat on the right side of opening and hem on the left. If tucks 
are desired put them in before cutting. 

2. Fold box pleat in the center, also hem and pin the"two centers together, pin 
pattern on material. Trace around pattern and cut. 

3. Pin and baste shoulder seam and under arm on tracings, gather across back 
waist line. Baste one sleeve and gather across top. (Overcasted, French or fell 
seam may be used.) 

4. Fit waist and make necessary changes. 

5. Stitch box pleat, hem and all seams. 

6. Baste on collar band and band across the back, fastening tape under ends. 

7. Make plackets on sleeves and put on cuffs. 

8. Baste in sleeves. 

9. Fit waist to see if collar band and sleeves are right. 

10. Finish all stitching. Armhole should be bound or seam overcast. Overcast 
seams if raw seams are used. 

11. Make buttonholes and sew on buttons. 

Wool Skirt. 

Material^ 

44 inches wide. Twice the desired length, allowing 6 inches for hem. 

1. Pin pattern on material and cut. 

2. Mark stitch or tailor baste very close around edge of pattern. 

3. Remove pattern and baste skirt together according to notches. 

4. Fit skirt, making necessary changes. Fit skirt very snug at waist line and 
easy over hips. 

5. Baste placket. 

6. Baste a second line Vs inch inside of where stitching is to be. Baste a third 
line Vi inch from second. This keeps material from slipping when stitching. 

7. Use gauge and stitch according to taste. 

-38- 



8. Pin and baste on band or belt. 

9. Fit skirt to see if belt is properly adjusted and turn hem. 

10. Baste hem and fit again to see if slvirt is even. 

11. Stitch hem. Overcast seams and sew on hooks and eyes. 
When making dresses use same order as in shirt waist and skirt. 



TWO-YEAR HIGH SCHOOL COURSE. 

(Forty-five minutes per day.) 
First Term. First Tear. 

I. Threading machine, stitching and using machine attachments. Exercise X. 
Tucking. 

II. Exercise X. Stitches. 

III. Exercise III. Seams. 

IV. Kimono Night Dress. Tissue paper pattern. 

V. Exercise IX. Bias. 

VI. Exercise X. Lace and Embroidery Matching. 

VII. Exercise II. Hemming, band, etc. 

VIII. Exercise VI. Gusset. 

IX. Draft Plain Drawers, Yoke, Circular Drawers. 

X. Drawers. 

XI. Exercise IV. Buttonholes. 

XII. Exercise VII. Darning. 

XIII. Corset Cover. Tissue paper pattern. 

XIV. Exercise XII. Fancy Stitches. 
Second Term. 

I. Draft Five-Gore Underskirt Pattern. 

II. Exercise V. Plackets (first two). 

III. Skirt. 

IV. Draft Shirtwaist, sleeve, collar band. 

V. Exercise V. Plackets (third). 

VI. Shirt Waist. 

VII. Exercise VII. Patching. 

VIII. Exercise XI. Mitered Corners. 
First Term, Second Year. 

I. Draft Skirt. From it design any desired skirt. 

II. Woolen Skirt. 

III. Make and Trim Winter Hat. 
Second Term. 

I. Make Cotton Dress, using tissue paper pattern. 

II. Make Second Cotton Derss, drafting and designing pattern from shirt waist 

and seven-gore pattern or use tissue paper pattern, according to pupil's 
choice. 

III. Make and Trim Summer Hat. 



-39— 



Plain Drawers— Draft. 

Trial Measures. ]s inch Scale. 

Waist 24 inches 

Hip 36 

Length 40 inches 




h 




-y\^ 


1 


^^^ 

^ 

■<^ 


^ ^^< 


^^ 


-^^ 




B 




D 



Yoke 

Trial Measures. '4 inch Scale. 



— 1- 



Circular Drawers Draft. 

Trial Measures, 's inch Scale. 



Waist . 

Hip 

Length 



24 inches 

. 36 '• 
40 " 




-2— 



Five Gore Skirt Draft 

Trial Measure, '/s inch Scale. 

Lengtli 40 inches 

Hip 36 

Distance Around Bottom .... 80 




Length 
Back . . . 
Front 
Underarm 



Shirtwaist Draft. 

Trial Measure. % inch Scale. 
Round 

\iyi inches Waist 24 inches 

15 " Neck 13 " 

Ti^ " Bust 36 

Width of Back 14 1^ " 
Width of Chest 15 



Test 

Neck . . .13 'A inches 
Shoulder . . 6% " 
Armhole . . 14;4 " 




Shirtwaist Sleeve Draft. 

Trial Measures. 'A inch Scale. 

Length 20 inches 

Armhole MM " 

Width of Sleeve 16 

Width of Cuff 9 

Depth of Cuff 2K " 




Seven Gore Skirt Draft. 

Trial Measure, 's inch Scale. 

Waist 24 inches 

Hip 36 

Dart 6 

Length of Front 39 

Length of Side 40 

Length of Back 41 




DEC ^7 1912 



^ 



LIBRftRY OF CONGRESS 



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LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 
014 145 199 6 # 



